Mariam Sweya performing a divination, June 3, 1995, Kanyama village 

Mariam Sweya and Mbula

Sukuma healers, 
by Mark H.C. Bessire
Mbula performing a divination, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village 

Both in their thirties, these two young traditional doctors have had no problem finding a niche in the need for general practioners in the 1990's even during the increased presence of modern medicine. In fact, there may even be a backlash against modern medicine as its potential is negated by a poor delivery system and inadequate facilities. Mbula lives a fair distance from the Musoma road near Lake Victoria and Sweya lives off the Musoma road near Igoma and not far from Mwanza. They are both financially successful and Mbula has two wives and four children and Sweya is one of two wives and has many children. Even though she is one of two wives, she certainly is the leader of her compound and her husband, a muslim, payed a very large bride price for the honor of marriage and thus access to her medical business.

Compound of Mbula with Euphorbia fence in the foreground and main residence in the background, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village  Two nyumba ya masamva (ancestral shrines) at the compound of Mbula, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village  Compound of Mbula with Euphorbia fence in the foreground and main residence in the background, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village 
Mbula's compund in Nyashigwe is immaculately manicured and is thoroughly camouflaged from the exterior by a mass of euphorbia. The front entrance is very dramatic as the euphorbia is so overgrown that it appears as a jungle while the openning is only distinguishable as you actually walk through it; when suddenly you are faced with two ntumba ya masamva, a shrine of rocks, another inner wall of euphorbia and then a wide expanse that leads to a trimmed euphorbia fence that welcomes you to the expanse that is the inner compound. The experience of this elaborate entrance that transcends the world from without to that within reminds me of peeping through the keyhole of the Knights of Malta garden on the Aventine in Rome which reveals an unexpected dazzling tunnel of vision that offers you a private gaze of the dome of Saint Peters and Rome and all its splendour.
Woman during possession trance grasping numba ya masamva (ancestor shrines), Mbula's compound, Nyashigwe village  Residence of the healer Mbula, Nyashigwe village  Mbula performing a divination, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village 
The inner compound, like Florence and the keyhole, lives up to the expectation of such a grand and appealing entrance. The ancient power of architectural and landscape planning has been moulded and shaped by Mbula in such a way that it is a surprise when you meet him, as he is youthful and his compound seems so full of traditional wisdom. All of the signs and signifiers of the power and mystique of the traditional Sukuma doctor are present and activated by this traditional doctor of royal blood who was born during the nascience of Tanzanian Independence. In his dreams the ancestors from his paternal side directed him to build a itemelo, a house in the design of the ancient Sukuma chiefs. Today, this house which he built as a shrine in reverence to his ancestors is possibly the only true itemelo in Sukumaland. He has a full array of shitongelejo including some extremely well carved walking sticks and many spears. Each structure is designed for a particular type of procedure or methodology and is dedicated to a certain ancestor or ritual. Mbula has also been influenced by magini and the dawa for this practice is kept in a modern rectangular home with bati (aluminium roofing), a storage area where Sukuma dawa could never be kept. He tends to sleep in this modern styled home a place where older Sukuma traditional doctors would never domesticate. Also placed in the entrance of this house is a license certified by the government that allows him to practice medicine.


Mariam Sweya performing a divination, June 3, 1995, Kanyama village

Mariam Sweya has a very lucrative practice with a sign post on the major Musoma-Mwanza road that advertises her location, Mwanza post office box, and includes a half moon and sickle indicating her expertise in majini. The basic shape of her compund is round, but it is not entirely enclosed and although she lives in a traditional round Sukuma home she is building two large modern rectangle houses with aluminium roofs in the rear of the compound. She has two specific structures that are used for her work, one is a nyumba ya njiba, which is the oldest of Sukuma styles, a round structure with reeds piled up to create walls and a roof. The other an Igaga, is a healing house which is also round but supported by timbers, has a higher roof and has two entrances instead of one. The interior walls of the Igaga are painted with red ocher spots relating to Masai medicines and her part Masai heritage and white spots that signify gwa sato or python feces. Inside medicines, herbs and a majini ngoma (drum) hang from the ceiling, a shigiti with calabashes and blue glass trading beeds are in the ground, a cracked pot layed into the ground has a fizzy potion and beside it are two other broken pots, one that is supposed to always have money in it to insure a prosperous future.

On one visit during a divination she used the Igaga and sat on her isumbi (stool) which had red ochre spots, a strip of lion skin, and an ndegi. During the divination she utilized many of her shitongelejo such as her sing'wanda (fly whisk), a isamalaja (a beaded headband) and shook an nzege (gourd raddle) to communicate with her ancestors to diagnose any problems and to help unleash the potential of the patients future. On another occasion she had the patient take some millet, spit in it and then place it under their pillow the night before they come back to visit her. She explained that this enabled her to see into the patients dreaming and help her understand the needs of the patient. When working in the older styled dwelling she was surrounded by even more shitongelejo and used a basket with millet that had cowry shells which she tossed in the air and then by reading the formation they landed in, told the patient what each position signified in terms of the patients divination.

Mariam Sweya in front of one of her divination dwellings, June 3, 1995, Kanyama village  Healing regalia of Mariam Sweya, June 3, 1995, Kanyama village  Mariam Sweya during a visit to the Sukuma Museum, May 26, 1995, Bujora village 
Mariam Sweya practices several types of medicine and divination including majini, a form of divination and spirit possession linked to Islam. She explained that there are good and bad spirits connected with majini. The good spirits can come to you spiritually and make physical love to you and if you accept their presence and accept the faith of Islam all will be well, but if you deny the faith the spirit can bring you terror. Bad spirits can be sent to someone through a traditional doctor but you had better be sure, she said, that the person who is being marked truly deserves the bad spirits, for if they do not, the spirits will return to the sender and bewitch them instead. If you know a bad spirit has been sent to you by someone, you can also visit a traditional doctor who knows majini and can provide protective medicines.

Sweya has many photographs of her clients which include local dignitaries, Danish from Bujora looking for dance medicine (including scarification), and a very large prominent group of Muslim elders taking part in a very complex ritual. Mbula also has many photographs of events, clients, and friends who have visited his compound. These two young bafumu have been able to bridge the wide and difficult gulf between a more modern style of life and it's needs with the traditions of their ancestors, culture, profession and the responsibilities they demand. Mbula can treat a patient that is possessed one moment because her ancestors are furious that her husband has not finished paying bride wealth and soon after play tapes on his boombox of him singing in a room full of collages from magazines and newspapers from around the world. Rather than turning their back on the traditional or the contemporary they have reconciled the past with the future, in a manner that for many in Usukuma has been impossible due to the demands of a fast changing culture and economy, that is always unpredictable and increasingly stressful. Possibly, Mbula and Mariam Sweya have the gift of healing and were able to adapt that ability to the post-independence era by placing themselves in a niche that attracts patients/clients who also have a foot in the past and future and who desire or are searching for good health and a strong identity that can withstand the demands of the ancestors and contemporary life together in the lake region of Tanzania.

Mbula performing a divination, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village
Mbula performing a divination, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village
Mbula performing a divination for Mzee Kang'wina, Nyashigwe village
Mbula honoring the grave site of the a chief of the Sukuma Chiefdom, April 7, 1995, Nyashigwe village
Mbula watching video footage of himself, 1995, Nyashigwe village
Mbula standing with two nyumba ya masamva (ancestral shrines) at the front entrance to his compound before a safari, June 27, 1995, Nyashigwe village
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