by Philip Greenspun; revised November 2007
Hotels in Venice are expensive. You just have to get over it. Most hotels also close during some part of the winter.
We stayed at this Venetian landmark in November 2007. The Londra Palace is very conveniently located for the Biennale art exhibition ("so great that we go every year"), as well as being mere steps from Piazza San Marco and the drop-off point for the water bus from the airport. The junior suites are large rooms, big enough to serve as a comfortable base for a week or two. Windows overlooking the water add to a sense of spaciousness. The restaurant is quiet and offers good food and impeccable service, a great refuge if you're tired of the tourist crush. The included breakfast buffet is large enough that you might not need to eat again until a late light dinner. In-room Internet service starts at 5 euro per hour, so it might be best to leave the laptop at home and rely on the concierge for all of your information. www.hotelondra.it
"The
sentimental tourist's only quarrel with his Venice is that he has too many
competitors there." -- Henry James. If you want to be three minutes from Piazza
San Marco, but not be packed in with other tourists, your only option is the Hotel
Cipriani. One of the finest hotels in the world, the Cipriani is a peaceful oasis
in what can seem a very crowded city in the summer. With a large garden and 32x19
meter swimming pool, you could easily believe that you were out in the country.
That is until you looked across the lagoon to the Basilica, the Campanile, and
the Dolomites behind them. It would be a great place for a honeymoon.
If staying in the best hotel in one of the best hotel cities in the world isn't either good or discreet enough for you, try the Palazzo Vendramin, right next to the Hotel Cipriani and run by the same management. If you're lucky enough to stay in one of the 7 one-bedroom apartments, you'll have a butler to care for all of your needs. This is where Princess Di stayed last time she visited Venice. The restaurant is famous and has unbeatable views. I'm afraid to mention the prices, but they represent good value. Hotel Cipriani, isola della Guidecca 10, 30133 Venice, tel (041) 520 7744, fax 520 3930, www.hotelcipriani.com. (closed in the winter).
If you are visiting in winter when the crowds are thin, or if you simply love to
be in the center of it all, the Luna is for you. Steps from the Piazza San
Marco, 50 meters from the San Marco Vaporetto stop, this is the oldest hoel in
Venice. Travelers have been staying here since 1118 AD. The rooms are huge; my
bathroom in the Luna Baglioni was about the same size as the whole room I stayed
in on my first trip to Venice (not to mention much better decorated). The view
from my double room included the tops of the Campanile and Doge's Palace, the
Canal Grande, the Canal di San Marco, the Canale Della Guidecca, San Giorgio
Maggiore, and another big church I couldn't identify. That makes a total of about
10 Michelin stars. Despite its long history, the hotel feels very modern and has
all the conveniences you'd expect from a 1988 remodeling. The restaurant is
notable for the chef's delicate way with the local seafood and also for its
no-smoking room, the only one I've seen in Venice. In summer, you can eat
outdoors. Rooms start at roughly 250 euro per night. Luna Hotel Baglioni, calle larga
dell'Ascensione 1243, 30124 Venice, tel (041) 528 9840, fax (041) 528 7160;
www.baglionihotels.com.
The Sturion has a great location right near the Rialto bridge. It was built in the 13th century by the Doge for foreign merchants. A private dwelling from the 18th century until the 1950s, the Sturion is again open for travelers but only with eight rooms, so make sure to reserve in advance. Three stars, prices from 100 euro. Calle del Sturion 679, San Polo, tel 523 6243, fax 522 8378; www.locandasturion.com.
Any hotel with two stars or fewer means that you are taking your chances. Try to get a recommendation from a friend.
The youth hostel is on Guidecca, the same island as the Cipriani, though without the latter's private launch service and popularity with European royalty. Rates are a modest 20 euro per night including breakfast. Ostello Venezia, Fondamenta delle Zitelle 86, Guidecca, tel (041) 523-8211; www.ostellovenezia.it. Best to book in advance for stays during the peak tourism season.