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I walked into a tobacco shop in Rome to buy bus tickets. The owner told me that there was, regrettably, a strike. He asked where I was going and said that he had to go downtown anyway to get some stamps at the central post office. He gave me a lift on the back of his moped all the way to Castel Sant'Angelo (Emperor Hadrian's mausoleum, later a fortress for the popes, location for Tosca's last aria). When two men share a moped, the one in back is supposed to clutch the bike at his sides, never wrap his arms around the one in front. I found this out later and then understood why people were looking at us a little funny

copyright 1996 philg@mit.edu

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