The St. Lawrence river east of Quebec City is an important summer feeding ground for 13 species of whales (source). The most common place to start a cruise to see these whales is from the north side of the river near Tadoussac, Quebec. Unfortunately this is a 6-hour round-trip drive from the big airport in Quebec City and a 3-hour round-trip drive from the smaller airport at Charlevoix. If you’re touring around in a light airplane, however, you can land on the south side of the river, at the Riviere-du-Loup airport (CYRI), and jump in a taxi for 10 minutes to the Croisieres AML pier. It takes about one hour to steam out to the prime whale-watching area, but it would be a cool pleasant trip on a nice day.
On our June 2016 cruise we saw four fin whales (the world’s second-largest), a couple of minke whales (the smallest baleen whale), and a beluga. Blue whales arrive starting in July.
One caveat: If it is gusting 21 knots at the airport, as it was when we landed, it will be ugly out on the “river.” Our 250-passenger boat was tossed around as though out in the ocean on a slightly rough day.
Logistics: The folks on the ground at the CYRI airport don’t seem to answer the phone, even for Canadian Flight Service. They are open more or less normal hours, however, and you can get back to your plane without a call-out charge until at least 6 pm. The airport has full-serve fuel but you need to taxi up to the pumps. I didn’t see a tug on the field. If you don’t take fuel prepare for some reasonably hefty fees ($100). Taxi Beaulieu, 418-862-3111, is fast and efficient. The VIP lounge on the whale watch is a cozy nest with picture windows facing the bow; worth the extra $30 and includes beverages (though it could use a big fresh air vent). Pack your own sandwiches for the boat, whose food selection was described as “bad” even by the employees.
No whale photos?
How is the whale watching from an aircraft?
Customs inspection upon arrival, yes?
Answers…
I would love to demonstrate that I am such a great photographer that I can go out on a single cruise and get the best whale pictures ever taken in this area by people who have done hundreds of cruises…. but it seems that I am not.
I have previously flown down the river to Newfoundland in a Diamond Star DA40 and saw a lot of beluga whales in the water with their distinctive white skin. It is worth doing but a different experience from being on the water.
I don’t think the little airport there is an airport of entry. So you have to clear customs in a standard place such as Quebec City and then proceed. We cleared back into the U.S. at Portland, Maine.
Customs — My sister and husband sail Lake Ontario out of Fair Haven yacht club (New York side). When they cross the lake and tie-up in Canada they tell me the rule is you’re supposed to call Canadian customs and tell them who you are, where you are, hull number and timeline plans. Canadian customs may or may not come to inspect. Usually not. And sometimes they don’t call if it’s only for dinner. Hundreds (thousands?) of boats cross the lake both ways over the course of a week.
fyi.. No whales in Lake Ontario. But the lake if full of zebra mussels. As a result the water is exceptionally clear and transparent to quite a depth.