Clash of the Titans

Just back from a second trip to Moosehead Lake, this time for five days with Alex, my friend Carey, and Carey’s 1.5-year-old daughter.  We packed ourselves, one bike, and baby gear into the minivan and drove.  It was 4.5 hours of driving time, just as Microsoft Map suggested.  Check back later for some more detail on the trip overall.  This entry is only about driving.


After a year of flying around New England the amount of traffic near Boston and on I-95 was shocking.  We were cut off twice, both times by SUV drivers.  We witnessed one fender bender:  the largest Ford SUV backed into the side of the largest GM SUV (parked).  Clash of the Titans.


Revelation:  I no longer wonder at people who pay $2000 for the optional rear-seat DVD system in a new minivans.  When a 1.5-year-old in the back seat is bored, it becomes everybody’s problem.

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First flight in a helicopter

Finally got to take the controls of a helicopter (good weather and the part-time instructor’s schedule aligned).  Joris climbed us to 1500′ and handed over the controls.  Straight-and-level:  easy.  Climbs and descents:  move collective a bit.  Turns at 60 knots:  easy.  Apparently flying a Diamond fixed-wing airplane is good preparation for helicopter work because one flies with pressure on the stick rather than movement of the stick.  Then we went to Minuteman airport.  I descended to pattern altitude and entered a left downwind for 21.  Joris took the controls and brought us to a point 5′ above the unused grass 12-30 runway.


Joris suggested that I try one control at a time, while he worked the other two to compensate.  Pedal turns: doable.  Controlling altitude with the collective:  doable.  Controlling horizontal position with the cyclic:  fell apart into lethal oscillations within 2 seconds (literally; try after try after try).


I was apprehensive about getting into an unfamiliar machine but never felt scared when in flight, despite the fact that we’d removed the doors for a better view.  Before my pilot-induced oscillations got too dramatic I would hear “I have the controls” in my headset.  Joris is a great instructor so if you live in the Boston area and have some spare time (and $190/hour) on a Saturday or Sunday, a visit to East Coast Aero Club at Bedford (Hanscom) is highly recommended.


It looks so easy to hover a helicopter and yet it is impossible for 99.9% of beginners.


Food for thought (category: how much smarter people were way back):  Igor Sikorsky invented the helicopter and then taught himself to fly it.  Taught himself.

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A relaxing vacation spot in New England: Moosehead Lake?

Development fever, the expansion of leisure time, and the buildup of our transportation infrastructure has turned formerly peaceful New England vacation spots into hectic places that are only relaxing if you like to sit in a traffic jam on your way to the 7-11.  Cape Cod has more traffic than Cambridge during the summer.  The islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard are heavily built up.  The lake district of New Hampshire, about 2 hours north of Boston, is similarly clogged.  I spent Sunday and Monday seeing what Maine was like.  The goal: see if there were some nice places to relax for a week or two, within a 5-mile drive from a public airport.


The coastline between Boston and Bar Harbor is extremely crowded with nearly every scrap of land containing a house.  The area around Bar Harbor is very impressive from the air due to a series of brand-new oceanfront mansions that are the size of small hotels.  Even if you had infinite money, which you’d need, these aren’t that desirable for a pilot because they are rather a long drive, esp. considering summer traffic, from any airport.


Beyond Bar Harbor the development thins out but sadly so do the airports.  Diamond Star N505WT touched down for the night at Eastport, Maine (KEPM), which is the last town on the coast before you reach New Brunswick, Canada.  Eastport is very scenic but not totally relaxing due to (a) houses packed fairly close together due to the fact that Eastport is basically a little island, (b) the place wants to be a working fishing town but mostly the fish have all been killed and therefore the town has a dispirited unemployed atmosphere.


On the way back toward Boston I headed inland.  Eastern Maine is logging, logging, logging, paper mills, and more logging.  Mostly, though, it is desolate.  You can fly for 15 minutes without seeing any vehicles, houses, or people–just trees, lakes, and deserted logging roads.  Northwestern Maine seemed to have some more recreational potential.  Boat docks and private airstrips began to appear around lakeshores.  I landed at Greenville (3b1, big enough to bring a light jet in), a stone’s throw from Moosehead Lake, the largest lake in New England.


A 5-minute ride on the folding Giant Halfway bike brought me into downtown Greenville, the only real town for miles in any direction.  This turned out to be a very pleasant spot with several good restaurants and cafes.  I sat down in http://www.theblackfrog.com and learned the following about the place:



  • “it is like Lake Winnipesaukee was 30 years ago”
  • the people who live here year-round are sort of like Alaskans, i.e., folks who didn’t like the crowding and regulation of life in the “mainland”
  • there is infinite mountain biking available on the dirt logging roads and snowmobile trails
  • you can drive to Boston in 4.5 hours
  • you can moor a boat anywhere in the lake and stay overnight; it costs about $400 per season to keep a very large boat in a marina here
  • you can rent land from the city-owned airport and build a hangar no problem
  • the lake water temperature is in the low 70s at the height of summer
  • the season is shorter by a couple of weeks than in New Hampshire
  • there is a very outdated ski resort nearby
  • the town hosts the world’s largest seaplane fly-in the 2nd weekend of September

  • Houses are fairly cheap ($100k to live, $200-250k to live fairly large, e.g., on the waterfront with a little boat dock).


In a slow airplane it is a 1.5-hour flight from Moosehead/Greenville to Boston or Montreal and less than 1 hour to Quebec City.


Is this where we should be renting and/or buying houses or setting up a houseboat?  Anyone spent some time up in Moosehead or have a better idea for a cool summer escape?


 

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Ancient Egyptian MP3ers

The latest book in the travel kit is Simon Singh’s Fermat’s Enigma, which talks about the mathematical knowledge that was in the library at Alexandria.  It seems that the modern MP3 craze has ancient roots:  “Even tourists to Alexandria could not escape the voracious appetite of the Library.  Upon entering the city, their books were confiscated and taken to the scribes.  The books were copied so that while the original was donated to the Library, a duplicate could graciously be given to the original owner.”


[The need for a good backup strategy also is highlighted by the travails of the old Library.  In 47 BC part of the collection caught fire accidentally because Julius Caesar was out in the adjacent harbor burning Cleopatra’s ships.  In AD 389 more books were destroyed because they were housed in the Temple of Serapis, a building that fell victim to a Christian assault on pagan monuments.  Singh writes about the final destruction, which occurred after the Arab conquest of Egypt:  “Then in 642 a Moslem attack succeeded where the Christians had failed.  When asked what should be done with the Library, the victorious Caliph Omar commanded that those books that were contrary to the Koran should be destroyed.  Furthermore, those books that conformed to the Koran were superfluous and they too must be destroyed.  The manuscripts were used to stoke the furnaces which heated the public baths and Greek mathematics went up in smoke.”]

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W encourages murderous Iraqis

George W. Bush today, the most powerful man in the world, directly addressed Iraqis who are sniping and firing grenades at American troops:  “bring them on”, he taunted, according to this NYT story.  As noted in my Boston-Alaska-Baja-Boston 2002 trip report, this seems like a bad idea.  What better way to make a guy with an AK-47 feel important than by challenging him through a televised speech?


And surely American boys will die as a result of this speech.  It sounds like W. mano a mano with a young Muslim.  But having been a passenger on an airplane that makes a carrier landing does not make our President into a front-line soldier.  It will be some kid from North Carolina that gets killed.


It wouldn’t bother me to hear that an American foot soldier in Iraq was challenging the local ruffians.  But to hear a guy sitting at a desk 6000 miles away doing it?  Why aren’t military families objecting to this?


Will a day come when we Americans can hear our leader talking about something other than kicking Third Worlders around?  Something that would result in technological innovation and economic growth?

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Et tu Microsoft?

Cash-strapped U.S. companies, devoid of management imagation, strive to cut costs by moving IT staff to India.  They’ll do the same things with computers that they were doing in the 1980s and 1990s but do them cheaper.


Microsoft was the exception.  Yahoo Finance shows that they’ve got a 30.6% profit margin and $46.2 billion in cash.  These are what economists call “supranormal monopoly returns”.  Yet what do we find in today’s Reuters:  Microsoft Shifting Development, Support to India”.  Microsoft is firing American workers and hiring in India.


[The other half of the Wintel duopoly is doing the same thing.   A friend of ours had his little company acquired by Intel.  They’ve had a hiring freeze in the U.S. for more than a year but would be happy to give him 20 newly hired programmers for his product… in China.  He’s now living in Shanghai and loving it, managing a medium-sized cubicle farm of eager under-25ers all recently graduated with Computer Science degrees.]


In a slightly related story, the New York Times today reports that the U.S. unemployment rate is up to 6.4 percent, its highest in 9 years.  The stock market is basically okay, though.  Investors realize that American corporations can make plenty of money without necessarily hiring Americans…

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Mauthausen concentration camp still a live issue in the U.S.

According to this AP news story, a guard from Austria’s Mauthausen concentration camp was arrested today in Michigan.  It is rather ironic that the Europe’s war against its Jewish citizens is still a matter of public interest and debate here in the U.S. considering that for most Europeans it is history as ancient and irrelevant as the Roman Republic.  The story reminded me of a trip to Austria in May 2002.  Austrians would ask where I’d been thus far.  I’d reply “Salzburg, Mauthausen, biking down the Donau”.  Oftentimes their immediate response was “We had no idea that camp was there.”


Mauthausen has been turned into a very informative museum and one of the interpretive signs is a map showing the dozens of factories within a radius of about 60 miles to which thousands of Mauthausen inmates were dispatched to work alongside ordinary Austrians.  If the Austrians were indeed unaware of the existence of the camp they must have thought it was strange that some of their fellow workers were so shabbily dressed and getting thinner every day until finally they didn’t show up.

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A billion here, a billion there…

Ever since I started to fly it has been confusing to me that the FAA does not spend a few $million publishing charts, airport and airspace information, and terrain avoidance information for the U.S. on a Web site; this would greatly improve the availability of this information to pilots and therefore safety.  A federal report released today provides some insight.  This report looks at 20 computer- and software-heavy projects undertaken by the FAA over the last 7 years.  They found cost overruns of $4.3 billion and schedule slippage of up to 7 years (but never less than 1 year).


It is no wonder that a lot of decision-makers don’t want to invest in anything with an information technology component. 

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Dia:Beacon

An hour’s train ride north of Manhattan, straight up the Hudson River toward Poughkeepsie, is the new Dia:Beacon art museum.  I stopped there today on my way back to Boston from Washington, DC.  It is a vast warehouse of contemporary art, sort of like Mass MOCA, but much more a celebration of the art and the artists and much less about the building and the institution.  Where Mass MOCA has big signs talking about the history of each room, the Dia:Beacon has only signs giving information about the art.  Where Mass MOCA crams the art into whatever space is convenient for a season or two and then shoves it back out the front door, the art at Dia:Beacon has found a permanent home.  Each artist gets at least one room to him or herself.


Philip and Annie’s tips for would-be visitors:


1) Don’t judge Dan Flavin, the fluorescent tube artist, by what you see in Beacon; go to Marfa, Texas (another Dia-funded project).


2) The cafe is rough around the edges.  Eat before you arrive unless you just want coffee and carbs.


3) Don’t miss the Robert Irwin garden (same guy who did the garden at the New Getty) and the big collection of Serras in the adjoining basement.


4) Be sure to read the essay in the Sandback string sculpture room, which is also available on the Web site (pull down “Riggio Galleries” from the “Beacon” menu).  Favorite excerpts:  “space is both defined and imbued with an incorporeal palpability”; “each sculpture is newly parsed for the site”; “Fact and illusion are equivalents,” [Fred Sandback] asserts; “Trying to weed one out in favor of the other is dealing with an incomplete situation.”  [Getting to the Dia:Beacon had required flying through 30 minutes of cumulus clouds on an instrument flight from Gaithersburg, MD, the rest of which was obscured by the same kind of summer haze that proved fatal to JFK, Jr.-style; imagine if the airline pilots flying through the same conditions decided that fact (what the instruments say) and illusion (one’s natural perceptions of being straight and level or falling sideways) were equivalent.]


For pilots or people whose friends are pilots:  You get to Dia:Beacon by flying into Stewart Air Force Base, KSWF, an active base for C5 cargo jets.  The runway is 11,800′ long so if you have trouble landing a Cessna there don’t tell anyone.  Taxi over to Rifton Aviation and borrow a crew car (1994 Ford Escorts with 110,000+ miles on them, perfectly adequate with air conditioning and a radio, thus proving the previously stated theory about the $2,000 Chinese car) for a 15-minute drive over to the east side of the Hudson River.  Take the first exit on 9D and follow signs for the train station in Beacon.  The museum is just south of the train station.

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I wish that I had voted for Ross Perot…

I had an antipathy to Ross Perot, the independent presidential candidate, from the moment that I heard him speak on television.  He was talking about education.  Any time that you hear a federal candidate talk about education you know that he is trying to snow the voters.  The Federal Government has almost nothing to do with funding or delivering education in this country; it is overwhelmingly a local and state government show.


But it turns out that H. Ross Perot, Jr.is my new hero.  I was down on the Washington Mall on Sunday afternoon.  The Smithsonian was running a folk festival.  Instead of scheduling it from 5-10 pm, Mexican- or Italian-style, they’d scheduled it during the peak heat of the afternoon.  After one hour it became intolerable and I ducked into the Air and Space Museum to soak up the air conditioning.  Up on the second floor, they have a Bell Jet Ranger helicopter.  H. Ross Perot, Jr., a young punk with 500 hours, and J. Coburn, a 3500-hour Vietnam vet were the first people to fly a helicopter all the way around the world.


Two guys.  Big extra fuel tank in the back seats.  One (very reliable turbine) engine.  Refueling stop on a container ship.


(I’ve not kept up with the achievements of the children of our current President; perhaps the comment section will fill up with reports of their heroic deeds.)

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