Category: Portugal

Ideas for billionaire memorials

by philg

As noted in Where are the gardens and museums created by the Silicon Valley rich? we seem to be undersupplied with public physical infrastructure relative to the number of super rich Americans. Jeff Bezos was happy to spend about 400 million dollars recently on a sea-level house in Florida (bought three houses recently for a total of $234 million, but there will surely be some renovations), but there is no “Bezos Museum of Contemporary Art” nor a “Bezos Contemplation of Two-Day Delivery Garden”.

Maybe some of our multi-billionaire brothers, sisters, and binary-resisters will be more interested in a lasting physical legacy after their deaths. If so, here’s some inspiration from Lisbon…

The Marquis of Pombal was an important administrator tasked with cleaning up after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake (make sure to stop in the quake museum early in any touristic visit to Lisbon!). He was the Herbert Hoover of 1755, in other words (Hoover ably directed the clean-up after the Climate Change-caused Great Mississippi Flood of 1927, giving Americans for the first time the idea that a bigger government could be more powerful than Nature). Here’s how the Portuguese remember their hero:

(photographed from a 7th floor terrace in the Bankinter building.)

You might reasonably ask how a private citizen can get a town or city to devote a public square to his/her/zir/their memory. Answer: money! Chicago, for example, has $52 billion in unfunded public employee pension obligations (source). America’s richest could plug that hole and enable politicians to keep promising more lavish compensation for government workers. In exchange, a prime downtown location for a monument like the above. (They’d better set this up before the last billionaire departs for Florida!)

Let’s take a closer look at the Lisbon monument:

What would the monument depict for an American multi-billionaire? Why not the acts that led to the riches? For a Warren Buffett monument there could a scene where he closes the door on an IRS official hoping to collect some taxes (combination of business acquisition deferrals and insurance reserve). For Larry Ellison there could be a scene where the cover page of the IBM System R SQL manual is ripped off and replaced with an Oracle cover page. For Judith Faulkner it could be a doctor entranced and baffled by a computer screen while a patient languishes and dies. For those whose billions are derived from family court litigation, e.g., MacKenzie Scott (Bezos) or Melinda Gates, there could be a tally of every time that the billionaire engaged in a sex act with the defendant prior to initiating the divorce lawsuit, e.g.,

For private equity heroes, the monument would depict half of the workers being given pink slips while the other half are loaded down with 80 lbs. of debt per worker. Where I’m stuck is in figuring out what to put on the memorial for a Wall Street billionaire. What are the heroic acts that can be depicted for someone whose billions come from high-risk trades that proved lucky or smart daily trades?

New York State will need to collect about $16 billion per year in fees from billionaires in order to plug its structural budget deficit (source regarding the gap between what politicians promise and what they hope to collect). There are plenty of spots in Central Park in which a deceased billionaire could be glorified. California has more like a $50 billion gap between what politicians want to spend and what can be extracted from the peasants (source). How about a series of memorial parks along Sand Hill Road and another one down near LACMA?

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A pleasant mansion and garden in Sintra: Biester

by philg

Elon Musk frets about our planet being underpopulated, a point of view likely to be confusing to anyone who has visited Sintra, Portugal. A garden built for quiet reflection, such as Quinta da Regaleira, will be packed with more than 1,000 tourists at a time in the shoulder seasons. It looks good from some angles, e.g.,

but to get into the most famous part, the “Initiation Well” (an underground tower), it was a 1.5-hour wait on June 12, 2024, less than two hours after the attraction opened:

How typical is this degree of crowding? Google said that we visited on an unusually quiet day:

Unless the city starts charging a $200 per person daily decongestion fee, there is no way to recreate the experience for which these palaces and gardens were built. You’ll be sitting in traffic and/or walking long distances up and down hills and waiting in line to get into even the smallest garden feature.

We found an exception to the above rules.. Biester Palace, the mansion that tourists haven’t learned about yet. Built with a banking fortune at the end of the 19th century, the palace appears to be in shabby condition in The Ninth Gate, a 1999 Roman Polanski (pregnant wife killed by Manson family) film starring Johnny Depp (future cash cow for Amber Heard until she made the mistake of partnering with the ACLU). There’s an entrance right next to Quinta da Regaleira and if you do decide to brave the Pena Palace you can exit via the top entrance to catch the bus there.

Here’s the view from the top of the park (mansion on the right side of the frame):

The interior hasn’t been redecorated to its former glory, but the rooms aren’t bare:

There are some great views of the Moorish castle above Sintra (Muslims controlled and colonized Sintra from about 722 AD until 1147):

Stop at the tea house for a friendly service, almost-free prices (about 1 euro for a coffee; 3.5 euros for a massive fresh-squeezed orange juice), and delicious pastry.

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Maintainability of cork seats on subway trains?

by philg

Here’s something that I wouldn’t have expected to work: cork seats on subway trains. The Lisbon Metro, June 2024:

Apparently, the seats used to be covered in cloth and they started a mass conversion about four years ago (“Lisbon Metro already running 100% coated with cork” (2022)).

By Palm Beach County standards, at least, Lisbon is plagued with graffiti. The Metro, however, seems to be an exception. I didn’t see any evidence of vandalism.

How long would cork seats last in the NYC subway system? Would every seat be defaced with carved initials within a few days of installation?

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A celebration of electrical and mechanical engineering in Lisbon

by philg

What if the electric company ran an art museum? In Lisbon, they do! The result seems to be a celebration of electrical and mechanical engineering in an old riverside powerplant. The process of charging a Tesla is explained to the lay visitor:

A detail of the boiler:

Babcock and Wilcox, an American company (apparently with some production in the UK), made these state-of-the-art products for about 150 years and their work included contributing to the Manhattan Project, thus helping to end World War II on America’s terms. The company was then sued into bankruptcy by asbestos lawyers. (“A lawyer with his briefcase can steal more than a hundred men with guns.”)

I would have liked to see more technical explanation and maybe a model steam-powered generating plant (with a mini Tesla at the end?), but this still qualifies as a great monument to the achievements of engineers over about 200 years (starting with pioneering female Jamesina Watt).

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Portugal Trip Diary 2

by philg

I’m wondering if it wouldn’t have been smart to stay in Belém, a neighborhood of Lisbon that is rich in tourist attractions. I would recommend that everyone visiting Lisbon start at the commercial immersive Earthquake Museum, a 1.5-hour experience that helps you understand how the various parts of the post-1755 city are arranged. Their motto is “expect the unexpected”, which got the 10-year-old tangled up in mental knots (“If you expect something then how can it be unexpected?”).

We hit the nearby Belém palácio restaurant (excellent basic Portuguese food, including the cuttlefish below) and then the obligatory tourist stop at Pastéis de Belém for pastries that are almost exactly the same as pastel de nata (crunchier crust, perhaps):

It was then time to experience peacocks at the tropical botanical garden:

(The 10-year-old’s standard statement on seeing any peacock: “Dad, buy me a shotgun and then… problem solved.” We actually do have a neighbor who received a 28 gauge shotgun at age 9 and, therefore, is equipped to deal with any problems caused by ornamental peafowl.)

I’m going to cover the powerplant part of MAAT, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology, separately, but here are a few photos of the art part:

Visitors could take off their shoes and enter the installation to pound away on about 30 different drums. This proved extremely popular with some members of our group…

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Portugal Trip Diary 1

by philg

Palm Beach International has an in-terminal art museum. Here’s a work regarding homophobia that is so pervasive and severe that the artwork “to discuss homophobia” was selected for display to several million travelers:

Our 8-year-old was seated next to a New Yorker on the flight to EWR:

Incompetence by United Airlines resulted in the inbound plane arriving at PBI one hour late. That put us right into prime Florida afternoon thunderstorm territory so there was an additional delay while lightning struck all around the airport and the ramp was closed. I bit my nails as the 2.5-hour plane change time in Newark, during which we’d have to take a bus from Terminal A to Terminal C, was eaten away.

Despite the time crunch at EWR, I managed to get a photo of an all-gender family restroom, the last so-labeled that we would likely see for three weeks:

The young, slender, apparently healthy, and righteous wore their masks in the EWR terminal and then while walking onto our EWR-LIS flight:

All of my nail-biting was pointless. The flight was showing on time when we rushed to the gate to find… no Boeing 787. Flightaware showed that the plane had landed two days earlier. Where was the plane? “They’re bringing it over from the hangar,” said a United employee. “I don’t know why they didn’t do it earlier.” After everyone was boarded we couldn’t close the door because the in-flight entertainment system wasn’t working properly. We departed more than two hours late and, thus, could have enjoyed a relaxed dinner if the delays hadn’t been piecemeal.

The Lisbon airport is so close to downtown that Uber Black is only about $30. More comfortable than a tuktuk anyway:

We stayed at the Altis Prime apartment hotel in Principe Real. This is walking distance from the tourist Baixa while quieter and more convenient for doing business. The hotel is around the corner from a synagogue so, literally within hours after we arrived, the kids got to see a Free Palestine march:

(Only about 50 out of Greater Lisbon’s 2.9 million residents chose to participate.)

After a bit of napping to recover from our United Basic Economy experience (Economy wouldn’t have been any better; by the time we booked there weren’t any decent clusters of four seats available and the premium seats were all sold out), we headed down to the Baixa (heart of downtown) and found a quiet pro-Ukraine gathering:

The next day we went to the natural history museum that is near our hotel and found this juxtaposition of an electron microscope up against a tile wall, which is an 800-year-old tradition in Portugal:

The museum is next to one of Lisbon’s three (at least) botanical gardens:

From the garden it is a quick walk to the Bairro Alto, a neighborhood just above the Baixa that is served by an elevator and a funicular:

I remembered the Time Out Market as being fun, but that was in September. In June it is mobbed to the point that there is nowhere to sit and also insufficiently air conditioned:

The obligatory panoramic:

Here’s the kind of thing that we’re getting from AI today:

I wonder if instead we could get robot stonework so that modern buildings could be ornate and beautiful:

A couple of the pedestrian-only streets of the Baixa. Note the elevator to the Bairro Alto in the background of one photo:

To be continued…

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