My last day in Anchorage was spent at the Merrill Field 75th anniversary party. I ran into about 10 people whom I knew so it seems that after three weeks I was becoming a local. On Sunday morning Alex and I departed for Whitehorse and beyond. The coast was saturated with moisture as usual. The inland route, through mountain passes above the highway, was supposed to be getting gradually better as the day wore on. The trip to Gulkana through Tahneta Pass was easy; low scud and some rain showers but basically the clouds were just slightly higher than the mountain peaks and well above the pass. A conversation with Flight Service revealed that the next pass was IFR as was Northway and the section of the Alaska Highway at the Canadian border. They had no observations or pilot reports for the alternative route up the Nabesna River. The clouds seemed kind of thin and I could see blue sky to the north. I was above a wide flat valley with about 7000′ of above-freezing air on top of a long runway. I decided to get an IFR clearance and climb up to to the minimum enroute altitude (MEA) of 11,000′. This necessarily entailed some risk of airframe icing because I was in a cloud and it was below freezing. No ice was forecast and none had been reported but on the other hand hardly anyone flies IFR in Alaska except in big jets and the jets don’t spend much time in the clouds and certainly don’t linger at 11,000′. As it happened the clouds were fairly light and the plane did not start to ice so I proceeded over the mountains and towards Northway, requesting a climb to 13,000′ in hopes of breaking out on top. The outside air temperature was -10C. I did not get above that layer but I did break out on top at Northway and continued over the clouds to Whitehorse, doing an instrument approach through the mountains there.
Once on the ground I talked to the Canadian Flight Service folks and they assured me that the next morning would be much more favorable for proceeding down the Alaska Highway than that afternoon. So I rented a car, booked a motel room, and settled in. The next day (Monday) turned out to be thoroughly miserable with rain coming down by the bucketload and horrible weather all the way up and down the Highway. If I’d had de-icing gear and a turbocharger it would have been easy enough to depart Whitehorse IFR and climb above everything but the Cirrus SR20 is restricted to plowing through weather systems rather than flying over them. I spent the morning hanging out in the pilot’s lounge with the other stranding folks. A guy from Colorado and his two teenage sons were just coming back from three weeks in Alaska in their Murphy Moose, a home-built taildragger suitable for short and rough runways. A trim grandmotherly figure clutching a Yorkshire Terrier came into the room. I assumed she was the long-suffering wife of a Cessna pilot. As it turned out Vicky was flying her 1961 Piper Colt back from Alaska to her home in Minnesota. She had been in Seward to run the Mount Marathon race, which she does almost every year. This is a race straight up to the top of a mountain and then back down. Most folks can’t do it, regardless of their age, due to some extremely steep sections.
In the afternoon I went to the 25-meter Whitehorse city swimming pool. Like most of these small Canadian towns they’ve built their pool with a massive Jacuzzi and water slide attached. Vicky and I went to dinner together and afterwards encountered a group of classic car enthusiasts driving their 1920s and 1930s Packards, Cords, and Bentleys up to Alaska. They were on the first leg of their trip, having shipped their cards up via the Marine Highway to Skagway. A tractor trailer followed the group with spare parts and mechanics. Some of these cars were as nice as any that you would see in a museum.
Tuesday started out with low clouds and some rain and mist reported to the east. Flight Service advised waiting until mid-day. I let Alex chase prairie dogs in the field just above the airport. It turns out that a priarie dog colony is almost ideal for exercising a canine dog. One pops up out of a hole and chirps. The Samoyed runs insanely after that chirping rodent who retreats underground. As soon as the Samoyed gets to the now-empty hole another priarie dog pops up 50 yards away and starts to chirp.
We eventually managed to take off by 2:00 pm. The lakes and mountains around Whitehorse are incredibly beautiful even if one has just been through Alaska. During a somewhat bumpy ride to the Liard River the scenery flattens out a bit and is lushly forested. East of Watson Lake we let the Highway go up into the higher mountains and followed the Liard and Fort Nelson rivers into Ft. Nelson. At this point we were basically out of the mountains and into the flat Midwest. I expected it to be the easiest part of the flight. I didn’t count on the smoke from various forest fires. Visibility dropped to about 2 miles; solid Instrument Meteorological Conditions (IMC). I would have called Edmonton Center to ask for a clearance but this is uncontrolled airspace so there is nobody from whom to receive a clearance. You just fly through the clouds following your instruments, checking the chart to make sure that you aren’t going to run into a mountain and crossing your fingers in hopes that no other airplanes are coming the other way in the smoke.
The flight from Fort Nelson to Calgary was similarly plagued by smoke until the last hour. It turns out that flying with smoke is unnerving because it is tough to see clouds and rain showers that one wants to avoid. We landed in Calgary after dark (dark! a novel experience!) and taxiied up to the Esso/Avitat around 11:00 pm. The line guys said apologetically that all the hotels in town were full. They did have a “snooze room” though if Alex and I wanted to use it. The snooze rooms turn out to be private with single beds. There is a shared area with satellite TV and a pool table as well as reading chairs. There are showers with soap and shampoo. Right next to the shower is a sauna. There is a restaurant downstairs that serves breakfast starting at 7:00 a.m. And there is a high-speed Internet connection that I’m using right now…
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