Norwegian Joy Alaska Cruise

A report based on an end-of-May 2026 trip on Norwegian Joy out of Seattle. This report will cover the on-ship environment and I’ll do separate posts for the ports.

We picked this particular cruise because it was one of a handful that visited Glacier Bay and that went round-trip rather than requiring a multi-leg air journey back from Anchorage. As an added bonus, the trip departed Seattle (no need to deal with airport immigration/customs chaos) rather than Vancouver.

Our itinerary:

Cautions that apply to any Southeast Alaska cruise…

The typical cruise ship is designed for the Caribbean and nearly half of her public space will be outdoors. Especially if traveling early or late in the season, these areas will be considered unusable by most passengers and, therefore, the interior public spaces will be more crowded than on a Caribbean trip. We traveled toward the end of the coldest Alaska winter in 50 years and it was still about 10 degrees colder than typical. The outside spaces got little use except when near Seattle/Victoria.

Modern cruise ships are a too big to fit comfortably through the traditional “inside passage” routes. Here’s the Alaska Marine Highway System route:

Furthermore, the cruise lines probably wouldn’t want to pay for a Canadian pilot to be on board for roughly 3 days of any round-trip. Thus, the cruise ships do most of their “Inside Passage” travel outside of the protection of Vancouver Island, for example, and the Pacific can throw much bigger waves at a boat than the Caribbean typically does. If you are prone to seasickness, consider a cabin on a lower deck and close to the center of the boat. These have the advantage of being some of the cheapest cabins on a cruise ship. If you’re determined to splash out on a high forward cabin, just be prepared for your food to also splash out!

Finally, expect the ports to be crowded. A town of 8,000 or 10,000 might receive nearly 20,000 cruise ship passengers on a typical summer day. All of the “downtown” sidewalks are going to be at least as packed as Manhattan sidewalks (not Times Square on a Friday night, but more crowded than an average Manhattan sidewalk). If you want to experience these towns as an Alaskan might, you’ll need to go before or after cruise season and/or do it via air/hotel. If you’re there in June, for example, there is enough light to do a lot of activities after the cruise ships cast off (typically 6-8 pm). This is not to say that the whole idea of Alaska+cruise ship is dumb. A sizable Alaskan town might have only one or two decent hotels and restaurants. The situation is better than when I visited in 1993, but a Hampton Inn-grade hotel remains a rarity. The cruise ship is the only practical means of supporting significant tourism because the hotel and restaurant arrives with the passengers.

Back to our specific cruise. Norwegian Joy was launched by Meyer Werft in 2017 and holds about 3,500 passengers. It lacks an all-the-way-around walking/jogging track and purports to make up for that with elaborate water slides and an electric go-kart track. None of the “wow” items are useful in the cold. Some experts might say that the ship was designed for ants and needs to be at least three times larger:

Here’s a view from above at Icy Strait Point:

It was warm enough on departure from Seattle that some kids were actually using the main pool:

Consistent with other cruise ships, the hot tubs aren’t actually hot. Instead of the 102-104 that a homeowner might set a backyard tub to, the cruise lines are perhaps setting the tubs to 98 so that a guest can sit in the tub for five hours while consuming 10 alcoholic drinks and not suffer any ill effects. The dream of a hot soak while the Alaska scenery scrolls by must remain a dream.

Buffet

More efficient than Royal Caribbean or Celebrity, e.g., with multiple omelette stations at breakfast so as to reduce queuing, but less variety and somewhat lower quality than Royal Caribbean (much lower than on Celebrity). The Indian section is mostly vegetarian for what that’s worth. Despite a high percentage of Filipinos among the crew, there is no Filipino section. Our 10-year-old liked to sneak down to the buffet and get crepes with Nutella.

The Haven

Norwegian lets you buy your way out of much of the noise and congestion by signing up for The Haven. This has its own spectacular lounge looking out the bow from the 17th floor:

We had a two-bedroom family room that was comfortable for a family of four and came with a “butler” whom we seldom used. Our master bathroom:

The Haven has its own restaurant, which turned out to be the best on the ship (see below regarding the specialty dining options), though they didn’t begin to vary the menu until the last couple of days of the journey. Maybe it is for the best from a waistline point of view, but the bakers weren’t capable of making a decent croissant or danish even for Haven guests. Remarkably, however, they did make some good fruit tarts with custard for the lounge. (It is possible to make a good croissant on a cruise ship because Celebrity does it!) Donuts were terrible, below the standard of a supermarket donut.

The Haven has its own sundeck on Deck 19. It is theoretically limited to guests 16 and older, but on an Alaska cruise there aren’t enough people up there for anyone to want to bother enforcing the rule.

The Haven has its own solarium with pool and not-very-hot hot tub:

The Haven concierges would organize escorts on and off the ship and make use of crew-only elevators to eliminate delays at peak times.

Was the Haven worth it? I would happily go on Celebrity again in peasant class, would willington go on Royal Caribbean non-suite, but I wouldn’t travel on Norwegian except in the Haven (about 2X the cost of a standard balcony room for a comparable-size cabin).

Specialty Restaurants

Most of these are $60 per adult as a supplement to a regular cruise fare.

Le Bistro: the 12-year-old enjoyed les escargots; the 10-year-old refused to “take one for the team”. Pretty good overall, though the baguette wasn’t truly crusty. The desserts were interesting.’

Teppanyaki: our chef, Kurian, was Filipino and a great performer. Food quality comparable to what you’d get at a good “hibachi” place in the U.S., but a more entertaining experience. “These shrimp are from Maine,” our chef proclaimed. “… the Main Dining Room.”

Q Smoke House: Imagine H-E-B supermarket BBQ… then subtract three levels of quality. Nice people, both kinds of music (country and western), fun decor, but apparently the inability to operate a real smoker is fatal to food quality.

Cagney’s Steakhouse: they can’t use a gas grill and they apparently don’t want to use a cast iron pan on an induction burner. Consequently, the steaks had no crust and were a bit soggy. The lamb was overly salted. The Prime Rib would probably be the smart choice since it doesn’t need a crust. The desserts were terrible, e.g., an obscenely huge chocolate cake that room service also delivers and a raspberry crème brûlée that was absurdly over-flavored with raspberry. Ice cream at the buffet would be a better choice.

Entertainment

Performances were weak compared to either Royal Caribbean or Celebrity. Singers and dancers were talented, of course, but they weren’t backed up by a live orchestra. The most popular performers on the ship turned out to be a Beatles tribute band (awesome period costumes).

Life on board

Internet: Starlink and much higher bandwidth than what Celebrity delivers. WiFi coverage was excellent throughout the ship.

Laundry: After a few days, Norwegian offers a $40/bag wash/fold service. Unlike other cruise lines, however, they bounce the laundry back to you if you don’t laboriously count what you’ve stuffed into the bag. The “bounce” took 24 hours.

Gym: Big and well-equipped, but not at the bow like some cruise ships have and, therefore, not inspiring.

Coronapanic has degraded cruise ship life, according to our cabin steward. Where Norwegian previously assigned one steward per 16 non-suite cabins, after the post-COVID restart the number is 22-24. Guests who previously received two services per day are now cut back to one. Haven guests receive two services per day, but the first cleaning might not happen until after noon. My memory of Royal Caribbean and Celebrity was that the cabin attendant quietly kept track of our whereabouts and would dart into our room 3-4 times per day so as to undo whatever chaos we had created. In the Haven, by contrast, our cabin cleaner was a nice guy but he cleaned on his schedule rather than on ours. Consequently, we were often in the room when it was time for him to clean or do the turn-down.

Some folded-towel art from Ceasar:

What to Pack

Pack some decent binoculars because it is possible to see otters, whales, seals, and other interesting animals from various open decks and even one’s balcony. What’s “decent”? Nikon Monarch M5 8×42 is the cheapest reasonable binocular. You don’t want more than 8X magnification because the ship+your hands aren’t that steady. The M7 costs more and has a wider field of view, useful when searching for whale spouts. The Zeiss Conquest HDX 8×42 is twice the cost of the Nikon M7, has a slightly narrower field of view, and is perhaps worth the money if you love high quality optics. (Confusing, the Japanese-brand binoculars are supposedly made in China while the German-brand binoculars are, according to our AI overlords, made in Japan.)

Pack a European-to-US plug converter because half of the outlets in the room won’t be usable for Americans. Norwegian won’t lend out or sell converters on board because they’ve discovered that Americans aren’t smart enough to understand voltage and whether a device has a switching power supply. To avoid explosions and fires from people plugging 115V-only gear into a 230V outlet they try to prevent this mechanically.

Do you need to see Glacier Bay?

Should you pick a ship/cruise around the requirement of seeing Glacier Bay? It’s useful for crossing the National Park off your life list, but mostly… no. Cruise ships are so large that they can’t get close to the wildlife that perhaps thrives in the National Park relative to some other parts of Southeast Alaska. There are plenty of alternative glaciers that aren’t national parks that are still beautiful. If you are serious about experiencing Glacier Bay it is probably better to fly to Gustavus and do a day cruise into the park on a smaller boat.