Skyfaring: A Journey with a Pilot

Skyfaring: A Journey with a Pilot by Mark Vanhoenacker is worthwhile for anyone who wants to know what it is like to be an airline pilot. The author is a first officer for British Airways who has type ratings for the Airbus A320 and the Boeing 747. The descriptions of systems seem to be technically accurate and the writing is graceful. Here’s takeoff:

But with speed comes the transition, the gathering sense that the wheels matter less, and the mechanisms that work on the air—the control surfaces on the wings and the tail—more. We feel the airplane’s dawning life in the air clearly through the controls, and with each passing second the jet’s presence on the ground becomes more incidental to how we direct its motion.

Rated pilots will find some stuff here to enjoy, e,.g.,

On sky maps of the Tasman Sea, the triangles that denote the waypoints hanging like notes on a musical staff arcing toward New Zealand are marked WALTZ, INGMA, and TILDA—a reference to Australia’s unofficial anthem, “Waltzing Matilda”—while many thousands of miles west, running north to south over hundreds of miles of Indian Ocean off Western Australia, is a lyrical sequence that begins WONSA, JOLLY, SWAGY, CAMBS, BUIYA, BYLLA, and BONGS—“Once a jolly swagman camped by a billabong…”

SNUPY. Near Kansas City are the culinary waypoints BARBQ, SPICY, SMOKE, RIBBS, and BRSKT. Near Detroit is PISTN, surely for the basketball team whose name reflects the city’s heritage of industry; the skies around Detroit also feature MOTWN and WONDR (Stevie, Michigan-born) and EMINN, perhaps for the rap star.

Boston has etched a particularly intricate constellation of itself onto the ether above New England. There is PLGRM, for the region’s history; CHWDH, LBSTA, and CLAWW for its food; GLOWB and HRALD cover the city’s newspapers; while SSOXS, FENWY, BAWLL, STRKK, and OUTTT chronicle the anguishes of the city’s baseball team across the heavens. Even the region’s speech—WIKID, followed by PAHTI—seems to be mapped.

The book describes why modern aircraft are such complex and overweight messes:

Most airliners now make use of GPS. Often, it’s been added onto an airliner that was not originally designed for it. There are many such technologies—related in particular to communications, and to the avoidance of other aircraft, wind shear, and mountains—that accrete in aircraft systems as layers of progressively higher neurological functions evolve in living organisms, while older systems still twinkle in the lower-down layers.

Highly recommended, though keep in mind that I’m biased!

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Asylum-seekers in Israel

One family in our merry band of tourists in Israel last month has a child who is devoted to Ethiopian food. The mom found a restaurant with great reviews in Google. We thus hailed a taxi and gave the driver the address in central Tel Aviv. “Are you sure that you want to go there?” he asked. Why not? Google says it is 15 minutes away. “Well, that’s near the old bus station. Quite a few of Israel’s 160,000 illegal immigrants live in that neighborhood. There are also a lot of prostitutes, which doesn’t bother me because they’re doing honest work. But there are also a lot of drug dealers and that does bother me.”

The neighborhood was almost completely dark, except for some brightly lit street-level apartments containing barely dressed women. The restaurant, at Ha-Negev St 10, featured warm friendly service and food that the New Yorkers said was better than their neighborhood Ethiopian place. It was also kosher! (On the other hand, if the boy’s father hadn’t had the GetTaxi app on his phone we might never have gotten out of there.)

I asked around and learned that there are indeed a substantial number of asylum-seekers/illegal immigrants in Israel. “They’re mostly from Sudan and South Sudan. They just walk across the border from Egypt,” said one Israeli, “It is a real problem because it is illegal for them to work here. But of course they do get jobs and are paid in cash. Then when there is a problem with their employer they sue under all of the Israeli laws protecting workers.”

One of our hotel maids was Agok, who said that she was South Sudan. She was very pleasant but it was unclear if she wanted to learn Hebrew or become somehow “Israeli.”

Related: A friend here in the U.S. hired an undocumented immigrant to work as a nanny and receive roughly $900 per week in cash compensation. After about four years the child outgrew the need for a nanny. The nanny then found an attorney to sue the employer on a contingent fee basis. The facts alleged were that the agreement was for $1300 per week in cash and that, every week for four years, the nanny had been shorted $400. The nanny was thus owed about $83,000 in unpaid back wages. That it was illegal for the nanny to be working at all apparently did not impair her claim under state law.

[Note: I mentioned the taxi ride and restaurant experience to one of the front desk clerks at our hotel. She said “I lived in that neighborhood for three years. It is kind of dark at night but it isn’t really unsafe and I enjoy being in a multicultural environment.”]

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In the land of refugees (Germany)

While in Warnemünde, I talked to a few Germans as well as a software engineer from Canada who had emigrated to Germany for a job. They either volunteered their opinion regarding immigrants or I asked for it. Here were some responses:

  • We aren’t doing a good enough job at integrating them.
  • I don’t see how integration is possible; they don’t want to be like us and we don’t want to be like them.
  • It is ridiculous to take in people who aren’t allowed to work. Why do we take in refugees and then not give them work permits within two weeks? Of course we have to pay to house and feed them regardless of whether they work.
  • Not too many of them settle here in North Germany. This is just a transit point to Denmark and Sweden where the welfare benefits are more generous.
  • It is too many immigrants too fast. 2 million immigrants in a short time cannot be absorbed.
  • Germans don’t like to admit that they made a mistake. They make a decision and just stick with it, regardless of evidence that it was the wrong decision. That’s what is happening with the decision to admit so many Syrians, most of whom are not actually Syrian despite what their papers may say.

The Germans with whom I spoke thought that their welfare state would have to be torn down if they were to continue accepting refugees. This would make Germany more like the U.S. back in the 19th century. Anyone could move to the U.S., but they wouldn’t get free housing, food, and health care. They also thought that German women would likely have to return to 19th century clothing to avoid coming into conflict with the imported traditional Arab and Islamic culture.

Regarding the EU, our guide told us that the governments of southern Europe were moving to the left while the governments of the north were becoming more conservative. This dovetailed with the German who said “A Spaniard, an Italian, and a Greek walk into a restaurant. Who pays the bill? German taxpayers.”

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What do liberal arts college graduates want to hear?

I attended graduation ceremonies at Oberlin College this year, explaining to friends that I wanted to “see if they were going to restore Bill Cosby’s honorary doctorate (awarded 2010; rescinded 2015).”

The president of the graduating class had minored in “gender, sexuality, and feminist studies” (see this video at about 41:00). I congratulated a college official nearby on getting a 20-year-old to pay $300,000 to learn about sexuality.

The main speaker was the great soprano Jessye Norman (at about 1:13:30 in the video). The transcript of Norman’s speech includes a quote from Albert Einstein: “when I examine myself and my method of thought, I come to the conclusion that the gift of fantasy has meant more to me than my talent for absorbing knowledge.” (i.e., J.K. Rowling is in line to become the 21st century’s greatest physicist; I noted to my friend that the people most likely to quote physicists on subjects other than physics are those who haven’t met many physicists…) Norman did not have any kind of personal tale of social injustice, having come from a two-parent household and having obtained scholarships and jobs commensurate with her hard work and natural talent. Nonetheless, her talk touched on social justice. Examples:

You will not be daunted by the terrible amounts of despair and struggle in our world.

Someone said that public service … this offering of our ‘better selves’… is the dues we pay for the privilege of life.

Allow me to ask … as you do … should homelessness even exist in the richest nation on this earth? Should anyone be hungry in this world of plenty?

The Metropolitan Opera House would need still more time for its wisdom of inclusion to make an appearance. It was not until 1955 that an African American appeared on that stage in a leading role.

With that short history lesson for some of you, events of the past which show us how far we have come, I trust you are inspired to set about making your own history, your own special mark in this world … a world that is just waiting for and needing your passion and your humanity, as we have yet so much further to go.

At lunch with three young future professional musicians who had heard the address I asked them “Given that Norman is not an economist, would you have rather heard her talk about her rarefied world of music and what she had learned, rather than wondering how economic growth could be consistent with hunger?” [Sidenote: Malthus may have a better explanation for this than Einstein.]

It turned out that Norman had struck all of the right notes (so to speak) with her speech. The young folks loved it, loved hearing that social justice was the most important issue, and loved hearing that they had an important role to play in achieving social justice.

What about Norman’s description of the world as a place that needs urgent fixing? Given that she was born in 1945, right at the end of World War II, did it make sense for her to quote “On the surface of the world right now there is war and violence and things seem dark.” Weren’t things a lot darker in 1945, with tens of millions of people recently killed? The young folks around the lunch table said that the world was in far worse shape than in 1945. “The problems back then were obvious,” one said, “whereas now they are hidden.”

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Before the Fall: A novel about rich people in private jets out of Martha’s Vineyard

A Hollywood screenwriter cranked out Before the Fall, a novel concerning some rich people who crash in a chartered 9-seat jet out of Martha’s Vineyard. As befits a Hollywood-derived work, the characters are generally either rich or recovering alcoholics:

Studying Doug’s back, Scott wonders how much money the boy stands to inherit from his parents. Five million? Fifty? His father ran a TV empire and flew in private planes. There will be riches, real estate. Sniffling, Doug hikes up his pants with both hands. He pulls a small toy car from his pocket. It still has the price tag on it. “Here you go, slugger,” he says. “Got this for you.” There are a lot of sharks in the sea, thinks Scott, watching the boy take the car.

The things money can’t buy, goes the famous quote, you don’t want anyway. Which is bullshit, because in truth there is nothing money can’t buy. Not really. Love, happiness, peace of mind. It’s all available for a price. The fact is, there’s enough money on earth to make everyone whole, if we could just learn to do what any toddler knows—share. But money, like gravity, is a force that clumps, drawing in more and more of itself, eventually creating the black hole that we know as wealth. This is not simply the fault of humans. Ask any dollar bill and it will tell you it prefers the company of hundreds to the company of ones. Better to be a sawbuck in a billionaire’s account than a dirty single in the torn pocket

At twenty-nine, Leslie Mueller is the sole heir to a technology empire. The daughter of a billionaire (male) and a runway model (female), she is a member of an ever-growing genetically engineered master race. They are everywhere these days, it seems, the moneyed children of brilliant capitalists, using a fraction of their inheritances to launch companies and fund the arts. At eighteen, nineteen, twenty, they buy impossible real estate in New York, Hollywood, London. They set themselves up as a new Medici class, drawn to the urgent throb of the future. They are something beyond hip, collectors of genius, winging from Davos to Coachella to Sundance, taking meetings, offering today’s artists, musicians, and filmmakers the seductive ego stroke of cash and the prestige of their company. Beautiful and rich, they don’t take no for an answer.

The woman in back, on the other hand, who told him to keep the change from a twenty, lived in Greenwich, Connecticut, and owned nineteen televisions she didn’t watch. Once upon a time she was a doctor’s daughter in Brookline, Massachusetts, a girl who grew up riding horses and got a nose job for her sixteenth birthday.

The book goes off the rails when it comes to aviation:

They started him as a copilot. This was September 2013. He loved the luxury jets, loved the clients he served—billionaires and heads of state. It made him feel important. But what he really loved was the grade-A, top-shelf pussy working the main cabin. Goddamn, he thought the first time he saw the flight crew he’d be working with.

Under normal conditions it is a twenty-nine-minute flight. Less than a short hop. There will be a six-minute lull before they are in range of Teterboro ATC

He stepped out of the cockpit. The crew bathroom was right next to the cockpit.

He had a few hours to kill before his next flight, a quick jog over to Martha’s Vineyard to pick up a payload of six. For this flight he’d pilot an OSPRY 700SL. He hadn’t flown the particular model before, but he wasn’t worried. OSPRY made a very capable airplane. Still, as he sat in the crew lounge waiting, he read up on the specs.

It’d do Mach .083, though he’d never push it that hard with paying passengers aboard. It’d fly coast-to-coast on a full tank at a top speed of 554 mph. The specs said it topped out at forty-five thousand feet, but he knew from experience that that was a cautious number. He could take it up to fifty thousand feet without incident, though he couldn’t imagine needing to on this flight.

On Friday, August 21, she flew from Frankfurt to London on a Learjet 60XR. It was her and Chelsea Norquist, a gap-toothed blonde from Finland, in the main cabin. [Note that a stripped Lear 60 has a full-fuel payload of 1068 lbs, so two flight attendants and their bags would consume about 30 percent of the payload.]

The plot critically depends on a 9-seat business jet having an armored flight deck door and a flight attendant. Planes that are used for short regional flights are also used to go on intercontinental trips. Small business jets have multiple flight attendants (the second flight attendant is required by the FAA when there are more than 50 passenger seats), dedicated crew bathrooms (like a 747?), and a “main cabin”. Pilots fly new-to-them turbojets without getting a type rating (training specific to that model of jet). Teterboro Tower controls airspace halfway to Martha’s Vineyard.

I can’t figure out why publishers and/or authors wouldn’t get one of America’s 500,000+ pilots to review and correct a manuscript like this. Perhaps nobody cares (i.e., the books still sell) and if you just assume that really the plane they were flying was a Boeing Business Jet then potentially it could make some sense.

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Royal Caribbean Voom Internet service review: now you can live and work on a cruise ship

I am mostly done with a two-week cruise on the Serenade of the Seas. The Voom Internet service is an honest 3 Mbits down and 2 Mbits up or $18 per device per day (press release). That’s 8X the measured upload speed we had in our Paris hotel. The engineers have done a remarkably good job of covering the ship with wifi. While on Deck 11, I started a FaceTime call with Domestic Senior Management. I then walked up to the top of the ship and all the way down to the cabin my mom and I are sharing on Deck 3. There was a slight hitch in the service just once or twice. The call dropped only once, which was when our button-happy two-year-old on the other side pressed the hang-up circle. The verdict from the other side, a Verizon FiOS link, was “better than any of the calls from Paris.” (one of those calls was from a $600/night Hyatt hotel where a friend was staying) As we got closer to the end of the cruise and more passengers signed up for the service it became subject to more hiccups, but it always worked.

The ping time below is long, as expected given that each packet requires a trip up to space and another one back down. This is noticeable as an extra second or two before a web page is rendered (compared to visiting a domestic site from a high quality home broadband service). Also noticeable is the fact that web developers have larded up their non-mobile pages with so much JavaScript and graphics that even a connection that would have been considered great 10-15 years ago is now somewhat pokey.

As far as I know Royal Caribbean is far ahead of the other cruise lines. The result is that an extended stay on a cruise ship need not cut you off from videoconferences with family, work with Dropbox and Google Docs, etc. Based on the FaceTime calls, which are more demanding than typical business apps, it seems that the High Seas and the full possibilities of the Internet are now compatible.

I tested the service primarily with a Windows 10 laptop, an iPhone (iOS 9.3.3), and an iPad (iOS 9.3.3).

Stuff that worked great:

  • Dropbox (uploaded about 30 GB of photographs and videos during the cruise)
  • Dropbox photo backup from iPhone
  • authoring via Google Docs within Chrome
  • Web browser (I ordered some stuff online)
  • authoring via WordPress
  • downloading the week of iPad app updates that had backed up during the catastrophe of Paris: 1 Gb. That’s 8 Gbits
  • downloading iOS operating system updates for iPhone and iPad
  • Facebook on every tested platform
  • Streaming Netflix to an iPad (brief hiccup every 30 minutes of playing time perhaps)
  • IMAP access to AOL email (guess if it was me or my 82-year-old mom conducting this test)
  • iPhone backups in the background

Stuff that worked painfully:

  • ssh’ing to a Unix server and then trying to edit files with Emacs; the round-trip ping time makes this usable only in an emergency

Stuff that didn’t work at all:

  • Napster (formerly Rhapsody; whose idea was it to name a subscription streaming service after the outlawed file sharing system?). I’m wondering if Napster uses UDP. Streaming audio with Google Music worked reasonably well.
  • Checking a development server that communicates over HTTP on a nonstandard port and also uses HTTP auth

Summary: Consumers with mobile devices should be thrilled with this as long as they are patient with some hiccups in the very most demanding applications, such as videoconference. Sitting at a laptop in one’s stateroom and using Google Docs, Chrome, and Dropbox, it is often not that different than being at home. (I talked to about 20 other passengers who had signed up for the service. They were generally satisfied but they didn’t seem to understand why it couldn’t be as rock-solid and lightning fast as their at-home broadband connection.)

Room for improvement: the system times out after every two hours of non-usage. If you’re running Dropbox and a browser with Gmail the laptop can in fact stay connected for 24 hours or longer. A phone, however, will go to sleep. Then there is a cumbersome three-page re-authorization process where you tell the system what language you prefer (why can’t it remember that with a cookie?), whether you have a username or an access code, and then finally where you type in the username and password (which the browser has apparently been instructed not to save). This should be a single page prompting for just the password and with a link to “more options” for anyone who wants to change the language or type in an access code. Something about this software made Google Chrome and Windows 10 unhappy, but switching from username/password authentication to an access code (which I got from the guest services folks) made the problem disappear.

I wonder if this will open up even more growth for cruise lines, or at least Royal Caribbean. Now people who either want or need to stay in touch can cruise with only minimal communication hassles and limitations. Time to buy stock in Royal Caribbean? The ticker is RCL (chart).

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Why doesn’t Paris have convenience stores?

Based on my recent informal survey of European cities, all but one have this in common: there are convenience stores every few blocks where you can buy most of the stuff that you’d find in a U.S. 7-11. These are open either 24 hours per day or at least for about 18 hours per day. The exception is Paris. One issue seems to be that commonly sought pills, such as aspirin or ibuprofen, are apparently restricted to being sold by pharmacists. Even the supermarkets don’t stock the common array of pills that you’d find almost anywhere else in the world.

What do folks think? How is it that the French have shut down nearly all commerce at around 9 pm in one of the world’s largest cities? There are a few pharmacies that stay open in case of emergency, of course, but the typical resident or visitor won’t be able to walk a few blocks and find the essentials.

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The Sympathizer by Viet Thanh Nguyen

Viet Thanh Nguyen won the Pulitzer Prize for The Sympathizer, a novel centered on the fall of South Vietnam and life in America for those who fled. Given that the author is too young to have experienced any of the events it is a remarkable work. Here are some excerpts.

On the differences among governments:

I cashed the check in my pocket, my tax refund from the IRS. It was not a large sum and yet symbolically significant, for never in my country would the midget-minded government give back to its frustrated citizens anything it had seized in the first place. The whole idea was absurd. Our society had been a kleptocracy of the highest order, the government doing its best to steal from the Americans, the average man doing his best to steal from the government, the worst of us doing our best to steal from each other. Now, despite my sense of fellow feeling for my exiled countrymen, I could not also help but feel that our country was being born again, the accretions of foreign corruption cleansed by revolutionary flames. Instead of tax refunds, the revolution would redistribute ill-gotten wealth, following the philosophy of more to the poor. What the poor did with their socialist succor was up to them. As for me, I used my capitalist refund to buy enough booze to keep Bon and me uneasily steeped in amnesia until next week, which if not foresightful was nevertheless my choice, choice being my sacred American right.

The worst thing about living in America is the corruption. At home, we could contain it in the bars and nightclubs and bases. But here, we will not be able to protect our children from the lewdness and the shallowness and the tawdriness Americans love so much. They’re too permissive. No one even thinks twice of what they call dating. We all know that “date” is a euphemism. What parent not only allows their daughter to copulate in her teenage years, but willingly encourages it? It’s shocking! It’s an abnegation of moral responsibility. Ugh.

On cultural, social, and sexual norms:

But of all the things I learned about her, the most important was this: whereas most Vietnamese women kept their opinions to themselves until they were married, whereon they never kept their opinions to themselves, …

She was the domestic equivalent of her husband, an anticommunist warrior housewife to whom nothing was just an isolated incident but was almost always a symptom by which the disease of communism could be linked to poverty, depravity, atheism, and decay of many kinds. I won’t allow rock music in this house, she said, gripping Madame’s hand to console her for the loss of her daughter’s virtue.

None of my children will be allowed to date until eighteen and, so long as they live in this house, will have a curfew by ten. It’s our weak spot, this freedom we allow people to behave any way they please, what with their drugs and their sex, as if those things aren’t infectious.

Madame had never cooked before coming to this country. For women of Madame’s rarefied class, cooking was one of those functions contracted out to other women, along with cleaning, nursing, teaching, sewing, and so on, everything except for the bare biological necessities, which I could not imagine Madame performing, except, perhaps, for breathing.

But the exigencies of exile had made it necessary for Madame to cook, as no one else in the household was capable of anything more than boiling water. In the General’s case, even that was beyond him. He could fieldstrip and reassemble an M16 blindfolded, but a gas stove was as perplexing as a calculus equation, or at least he pretended so. Like most of us Vietnamese men, he simply did not want to be even brushed with domesticity.

On career opportunities for skilled immigrants:

Likewise in California, he had promised me the best rice porridge in Greater Los Angeles, and it was over a silky smooth white pottage that I commiserated with the crapulent major. He was now a gas station attendant in Monterey Park, paid in cash so he could qualify for welfare benefits.

Many once commanded artillery batteries and infantry battalions, but now they possessed nothing more dangerous than their pride, their halitosis, and their car keys, if they even owned cars. I had reported all the gossip about these vanquished soldiers to Paris, and knew what they did (or, in many cases, did not do) for a living. Most successful was a general infamous for using his crack troops to harvest cinnamon, whose circulation he monopolized; now this spice merchant lorded over a pizza parlor. One colonel, an asthmatic quartermaster who became unreasonably excited discussing dehydrated rations, was a janitor. A dashing major who flew gunships, now a mechanic. A grizzled captain with a talent for hunting guerrillas: short-order cook. An affectless lieutenant, sole survivor of an ambushed company: deliveryman. So the list went, a fair percentage collecting both welfare and dust, moldering in the stale air of subsidized apartments as their testes shriveled day by day, consumed by the metastasizing cancer called assimilation and susceptible to the hypochondria of exile. In this psychosomatic condition, normal social or familial ills were diagnosed as symptoms of something fatal, with their vulnerable women and children cast as the carriers of Western contamination. Their afflicted kids were talking back, not in their native language but in a foreign tongue they were mastering faster than their fathers. As for the wives, most had been forced to find jobs, and in doing so had been transformed from the winsome lotuses the men remembered them to be. As the crapulent major said, A man doesn’t need balls in this country, Captain. The women all have their own.

On Vietnamese versus American educational systems:

Our teachers were firm believers in the corporal punishment that Americans had given up, which was probably one reason they could no longer win wars. For us, violence began at home and continued in school, parents and teachers beating children and students like Persian rugs to shake the dust of complacency and stupidity out of them, and in that way make them more beautiful.

The protagonist goes to the Philippines to help out with a Vietnam War movie:

I felt at home the instant I stepped from the air-conditioned chamber of the airplane into the humidity-clogged Jetway. The spectacle of the constabulary in the terminal with automatic weapons slung on their shoulders also made me homesick, confirming I was again in a country with its malnourished neck under a dictator’s loafer.

He had a Minnesotan’s admiration for resourcefulness in the face of hardship, bred by generations of people one very bad winter away from starvation and cannibalism

The longer I worked on the Movie, the more I was convinced that I was not only a technical consultant on an artistic project, but an infiltrator into a work of propaganda. A man such as the Auteur would have denied it, seeing his Movie purely as Art, but who was fooling whom? Movies were America’s way of softening up the rest of the world, Hollywood relentlessly assaulting the mental defenses of audiences with the hit, the smash, the spectacle, the blockbuster, and, yes, even the box office bomb. It mattered not what story these audiences watched. The point was that it was the American story they watched and loved, up until the day that they themselves might be bombed by the planes they had seen in American movies.

You guys are paranoid, I said. Every paranoid person is right at least once, said the tall sergeant. When he dies.

I’m not in love with the last portion of the book, which concerns a reeducation camp. Sitting in a comfortable office in Berkeley, California, it is not easy to imagine what the experience of being detained indefinitely is like.

Readers: What did you think of this book?

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Remembering Seymour Papert, pilot

There are a lot of obituaries of Seymour Papert, an MIT researcher famous for his work on Logo, the late 1960s/early 1970s programming language for children that was supposed to help them learn math and other technical disciplines. As with most attempts at innovation within the American public school system, this proved to be a failure, but it seems unfair to judge Papert because unionized government workers weren’t effective at coding or teaching coding.

This posting is to share a vicarious memory. One of my advisors at MIT flew to Chicago with Papert in a Bonanza, piston-powered Cessna, or similar light airplane. This was back in the 1970s. FAA records show that Papert had a current medical in 1997 (age 69) and his Private certificate with airplane single engine land and instrument airplane ratings was issued in 1999 (age 71; perhaps this was a reissue somehow? he wouldn’t have been flying to Chicago without an instrument rating). Papert enjoyed teaching what he knew about aviation and used his non-pilot passenger as a navigator for this pre-GPS flight, entrusting him with charts. During the long flight, the passenger learned how to tune and use VORs and read IFR charts. From the perspective of the young professor sitting in the right seat there were some harsh words from ATC in the Chicago area regarding the aircraft’s position within what probably would have been called the “TCA” back then (Class B or “Bravo airspace” today, now that we have adopted ICAO terminology).

It seems that Papert lived to 88, long enough to watch his students work and, in most cases, retire. He flew until at least age 69, something that the current generation of professors won’t even attempt, and did nearly all of those flights in an era when it wasn’t possible to look at a moving map with a big “you are here” symbol. I have raised a Royal Caribbean Bellini to his memory and legacy here on the Serenade of the Seas.

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Estonia: Tough campaign stop for Bernie Sanders

Our guide in Estonia explained that Estonia was forced by the Soviets to adopt a Socialist economic system in 1944 (Wikipedia history article). Private houses and apartment buildings were confiscated by the state. Farmers were allowed to keep a farmhouse and one hectare of land (2.5 acres) but the rest of their land was turned into communal farms. Families that had previously owned a house were generally allowed to stay in the house but they then had to share with multiple additional families. All of this was then unrolled starting in 1991 when the country became independent once again. Old property records were dug up and real estate was restored to previous owners and/or their heirs, even if those owners had left the country 50 years earlier. People who lived in houses and apartments under the Socialist system were then forced to move out, but they didn’t have enough money to rent or buy a new place due in part to the fact that there weren’t really enough housing units. It took about ten years to sort this all out and get every family into its own place.

What about our guide herself? Her family had a 63-hectare”linen” (flax?) farm that was confiscated and restored. Now they use it as a summer escape to the forest; there are no longer any crops on what had been the fields. Her husband’s family had a 20-hectare farm less than a 30-minute drive from downtown Tallinn. It too was confiscated, but restored to the husband and now they live there with their three children and two dogs.

What kind of political system do people who went from Capitalism to Socialism to Capitalism adopt? “We’re quite conservative,” Siiri explained. She described a streamlined government in which all business could be conducted online. She described taxes as “simple” and explained that people pay a flat 21 percent income tax plus a flat 20 percent consumption tax (VAT, as in the rest of Europe). In addition, employers pay a tax of 33 percent on top of wages to fund pensions and health care. It seems that there is no support for a progressive income tax rate; Estonians are satisfied that a person who makes 5X the average will pay 5X in tax; they don’t dream of a world in which that person will pay 10X or 15X. She expressed pride that Estonia had a budget surplus, a distinction that only Germany shares within Europe. The Heritage Foundation rates Estonia as having more economic freedom than the U.S. and as spending about 38 percent of GDP on government. I think that this number can’t be compared to the U.S. number because the typically quoted U.S. numbers don’t include all of Obamacare and other health insurance spending. (See “Health insurance premiums should be counted as tax revenue?”.) The Tax Foundation says that Estonia has the most favorable tax system within the OECD and it doesn’t double-tax corporate profits (in the U.S. we tax the company first and then tax individuals on the dividend income). It appears that there is in fact no “corporate tax” as such. It is just that the company pays tax on dividends that it is distributing. So where a U.S. company may face a combined 40 percent federal and state corporate income tax rate, the comparable number in Estonia is 0. (Estonia will tax distributed profits, however, just as the U.S. taxes dividends, but at a somewhat lower rate.) This page suggests that capital gains are not adjusted for inflation and they are taxed at the same rate as ordinary income (therefore at a lower rate than most U.S. taxpayers pay if you consider both federal and state rates).

Given the lack of higher tax rates on richer Estonians and the smaller share of the economy devoted to government, is Estonia doing worse than the U.S. for its most vulnerable citizens? “Where are children getting the best education?” suggests the opposite: “For example, Estonia has one of the highest PISA scores in Europe, and only 3% of children are low performers in all three skills, leading the European league table.” (The U.S., by comparison, has 25 percent of its schoolchildren in the “low performing” category that will likely result in their exclusion from the workforce (see “unemployed = 21st century draft horse?”).)

[Separately, I asked our guide in the next port, Riga, Latvia, to tell me what was better about this country compared to Estonia (“aside from the language, culture, and people” I prompted). He surprised me by saying that basically the Estonians were better at everything. They’d set up a lower tax more efficient environment for business and were “some years ahead of us.” Corporate taxes in Latvia are 15 percent (compared to zero, as noted above). Income tax is 25 percent. As in Estonia, all taxes are flat-rate. Our Latvian guide specializes in antiques and historical restoration when he is not managing busloads of cruisers. He lives with his wife on a 75-hectare (185 acres!) farm that is roughly a 30-minute drive from the center of Riga. Latvia went through the same process of confiscation of private property then restoration. Juris said that it took about 10 years to sort out during this last swing.]

I’ll write more about this later, but I wonder if Estonia shows that, once you’ve got free trade agreements in place, there is no per-capita economic advantage to be gained in having a country with a large population. It is apparently not more efficient to run a government for 100 million or 300 million people than for 1 million.

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