Aurora Borealis viewing in Fairbanks, Alaska
The Iditarod starts at 3 pm Eastern today. As has happened 3 times before (2003, 2015, and 2017), the sled dog race begins in Fairbanks rather than near Anchorage. This is due to a lack of snow.
As we all get set up to watch the puppies run, here are some tips on traveling to Fairbanks, Alaska, one of the world’s best places for seeing the Northern Lights due to (1) reasonably clear skies, (2) reasonably easy travel, and (3) perfect latitude (coincides with peak aurora activity).
A tour operator says that April 11-20 is the best time to see the aurora because it is the driest period and also close to an equinox, which is typically a peak for activity. 2025 is right near the peak of solar activity (on an 11-year circle) so maybe April 2025 is the time to go! (I went Feb 20-27, 2025, which coincided with the World Ice Art Championships that was a nice bonus, but it probably would have been better to go in April so as not to suffer as much from the cold!)
Except in the summer, you’ll probably have to fly through Seattle. Unless you live in Seattle, Delta Airlines might be a better choice for the total trip than Alaska Airlines because Delta has more overall network capacity to recover from a staffing or maintenance issue.
Spend the first day at the University of Alaska Fairbanks’s Museum of the North and watch the movie about the aurora ($20 if you’re foolish enough to work; free if you show your EBT card). Stop by the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center in downtown and pick up a guide to aurora viewing that includes a map of good locations. Inside the visitors center try to refrain from shouting out “Like Jeffrey Epstein, that Piper PA-22 didn’t hang itself”.
My Lyft driver (Uber pays a lower percentage of the revenue to drivers and is, therefore, so disfavored by drivers in Fairbanks that Lyft is the only service available in winter), who was also an aurora tour operator, explained that moisture/clouds tend to hang over the city but that as soon as you get to the first ridge going north the weather tends to clear. This also has the advantage of getting you away from the city’s light pollution. We had great luck at the Cleary Summer, about 30 minutes from downtown:
There are some cabins with skylights to rent right there, The Overlook at Cleary Summit, and that might be the smarter way to do a trip (watch the aurora while lying in bed; splurge by also renting a hotel room in downtown Fairbanks and bouncing back and forth depending on weather and desire to be close to restaurants and museums). Some friends organized a trip based at Pike’s Waterfront Lodge, which is right next to the end of the big runway at Fairbanks International Airport! The Overlook has Starlink Internet that should be better than what we had at Pike’s Lodge (Alaska is plagued by a telephone/Internet monopoly (“GCI”) that will make you take back all of the bad things that you said about Xfinity, AT&T, and Verizon). Getting up the hill to Cleary Summit wasn’t too challenging. We had a full-size van from Avis with studded tires. A regular AWD SUV with good winter tires would have worked as well.
Our first night of aurora viewing wasn’t that exciting. We drove 30 minutes up to a turnout on the Elliott Highway. With our naked eyes we saw what looked like white-gray thin vertical clouds. Photographed with an iPhone 16 Pro Max steadied via Ulanzi/Gitzo, however, a spectrum of colors emerged (exposures of about 5 seconds on the left and 30 seconds on the right; it probably would have been smarter to download and use Halide or a similar “pro camera” app that would have allowed more bracketing):




On the second night, we went to Cleary Summit (a big parking lot with the challenge of retaining one’s night vision as cars came and went with headlights on):


About 15 minutes later (pretty much fully automatic, with the iPhone choosing to expose for 5 seconds):



We never did see the red/pink colors in the above photos with our eyes, but we did see green, albeit not as saturated as in the above photos. Our hotel had an aurora chaser’s movie on permanent repeat in its library. The filmmaker gets very excited when he can see red with his naked eye and points out that he hadn’t seen that color for years. Unless a scene is bright you’re going to see it with your rods, which are monochrome, rather than your cones. The most common aurora frequency is green and our visual systems are very sensitive to green, which means you have a decent chance of seeing green. Partly because nobody has built a camera that works like the human visual system at night, the aurora industry is based largely on fraud. Here, for example, is a tour operator’s example of what you’ll see after paying $9000+ for two people:
Maybe an Alaska resident does occasionally see something like this, but a tourist is unlikely to see a color other than white or green on a one-week tour. Two perspectives:
- “the Northern Lights are one of the few things that look better in a photo than in real life”
- “looking at pictures of the Northern Lights before going on a trip is like watching porn movies to figure out what married sex after 10 years will be like”
The tradition of overselling the lights goes back at least to 1865 when Frederic Edwin Church painted the following (based on sketches and descriptions from Isaac I. Hayes, who did not sing but who spent years in the high Arctic):
If you are going to visit in the winter pack as though you were going ice fishing. I thought that I’d be okay with clothing that I wore for walking a dog in Maskachusetts in 10F temps. The temperature north of Fairbanks was closer to 0F, however, and watching the aurora involves minimal movement. Wool socks and insulated snow boots were useless on the first night so I stopped at Prospector Outfitters and got battery-powered socks for the second night. Felt boots such as Sorel or Baffin would have been a smarter choice (I had Sorels back in the Boston area, but I left them in the garage and squirrels used them as a house/outhouse). Electrically heated gloves would be the smart way to go for finger comfort. I was using an Apple Watch as a remote trigger (to minimize camera shake) for the iPhone camera and I don’t think that could have been done without exposing bare fingers for every photo. Maybe a remote shutter release with a physical button would have been usable with gloves kept on.
Would I go again? Sure, but I would want to have some kind of anchor activity in Fairbanks, either seeing friends or doing an exercise program or taking a class or something. Alternatives include Iceland, but it is surrounded by water and, therefore, seems likely to be much cloudier than Fairbanks. Arctic Norway (e.g., Tromsø) is a possibility, but it might be more challenging to travel to for an American and probably more expensive (Fairbanks has a McDonald’s, a Walmart, gasoline at just over $3/gallon, etc.). I would go back for the experience, not to try to compete for best picture with the people who live in the Arctic and are likely to be there on the 20 best nights of the past 10 years.
Crash course in Aurora #Science from Pike’s Lodge:
Related:
- “The Colors of the Aurora” by Dirk Lummerzheim (National Park Service)